Few garments have stood the test of time quite like the waistcoat. Once a symbol of aristocracy and refinement, this timeless piece has evolved from royal court attire to a versatile essential in modern menswear. Introduced by King Charles II in the 17th century, the waistcoat was originally designed to showcase wealth and status. Overtime, it transitioned from the exclusive domain of the upper classes to a must have for stylish men across all walks of life.

Image credit to Fashion Institute of Technology

Throughout history, notable figures have embraced the waistcoat such as Winston Churchill - he was often seen wearing a classic waistcoat with his suits, which became a hallmark of his distinguished style. More recently, modern icons like Daniel Craig have brought the waistcoat back into the spotlight. In his role as James Bond, Craig’s tailored waistcoats proved the waistcoat's versatility as a key element in both formal and contemporary menswear.

At Oliver Brown, we offer a variety of waistcoat styles, including both single and double-breasted designs in fabrics such as wool, linen, and silk. Wool provides warmth and structure, making it perfect for colder weather or formal settings. Linen is lightweight and crisp, ideal for summer events, while silk waistcoats offer a luxurious touch for those looking to stand out.

Colour plays a crucial role when selecting a waistcoat, especially for weddings and special occasions. For weddings, soft pastels such as pink, blue, and lavender can add a refined yet modern touch, complementing the overall theme and seasonal palette. 

Traditional buff or grey waistcoats remain a timeless choice, particularly for morning dress. Meanwhile, darker shades such as navy, charcoal, or black provide a more formal appearance, suitable for evening events. We also offer a Classic Marcella waistcoat for white tie events, along with black waistcoats in both single and double-breasted designs for morning and evening wear.

Among our most popular styles are the double or single-breasted buff or grey waistcoats, available for both purchase or hire. "Double-breasted is the best waistcoat," says Andrew, made-to-measure specialist at Jermyn Street. "It's a classic choice that never goes out of style."

When determining the fit of your waistcoat, ensure the shoulder seams align with the natural end of your shoulders. If the shoulder seams sit too high, they could restrict movement; if too low, the look can appear untidy. The golden rule is to leave the bottom button undone, a tradition that dates back to King Edward VII. It is said that the king, due to his expanding waistline, left his bottom button undone, and this became an unwritten rule of style. However - this rule only applies to the single breasted waistcoat. For double-breasted waistcoats, you must fasten all of the buttons. 

A waistcoat is one of the most versatile pieces in a man’s wardrobe, adaptable to a wide range of occasions, from casual outings to formal events, and even business settings. "The navy blue waistcoat is my top choice, especially in the winter months when paired with moleskin jeans," says Dev at Jermyn Street.

A tweed waistcoat is ideal for weekend outings and can pair it with jeans or chinos and a casual shirt for a smart but comfortable outfit. The breathability of linen ensures comfort while maintaining a polished appearance. If you’re wearing a tie, ensure it complements the pattern and color of your waistcoat, and make sure the waistcoat sits symmetrically down the chest when buttoned.

In formal settings, the waistcoat takes on a more traditional role as part of a three-piece suit. For events like weddings or formal evenings, a tailored waistcoat beneath a suit jacket elevates the look. Opt for darker colours, such as navy, charcoal, or black, and pair it with a classic dress shirt, tie, or bow tie for a sharp appearance. 

To extend the life of your waistcoat, ensure you store it correctly by hanging it on a padded hanger, which will preserve its shape. Always ensure that your waistcoat is dry-cleaned to avoid damage. For waistcoats made from delicate fabrics like linen or tweed, consider using a fabric steamer to gently remove wrinkles.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a waistcoat?

A waistcoat is a sleeveless garment worn over a shirt and often under a jacket, typically part of formal or semi-formal attire.

How should a waistcoat fit?

A waistcoat should fit neatly but comfortably, allowing for movement. It should not pull at the buttons or sag.

When should I wear a waistcoat?

Waistcoats are suitable for formal occasions like weddings, business events, and parties, but can also be styled casually.

What should I wear with a waistcoat?

Waistcoats are often worn with dress shirts and suits. You can pair them with trousers or chinos for a smart-casual look.

Can I wear a waistcoat without a jacket?

Yes! A waistcoat can be worn alone for a stylish, layered look, especially in more casual settings.

What fabrics are waistcoats made from?

Waistcoats come in various fabrics, including wool, cotton, linen, and velvet, depending on the occasion and season.

How do I care for my waistcoat?

Care instructions vary by fabric. Generally, dry cleaning is recommended for formal waistcoats, while cotton ones can be machine washed.

What types of waistcoats are there?

Waistcoats come in various styles, including formal, casual, double-breasted, and single-breasted, each suited for different occasions.

How do I choose the right colour for a waistcoat?

Choose a colour that compliments your outfit. For formal events, neutral or darker shades work well, while brighter colours can add a pop to casual wear.

What should I consider when buying a waistcoat?

Consider the fit, fabric, occasion, and how it complements your existing wardrobe. It's also good to try it on with the shirt and trousers you plan to wear.

How many buttons should a waistcoat have?

Most waistcoats have 3 to 6 buttons. A 3-button waistcoat is classic, while a 5- or 6-button style can offer a more formal look.

Overall, mastering waistcoat styling predominantly involves selecting the right fit and fabric, while coordinating colors and patterns effectively. Whether dressing for a formal event or a casual outing, a well-chosen waistcoat can elevate any look. By avoiding common mistakes and focusing on balance, you can confidently incorporate this versatile piece into your wardrobe. Explore Oliver Brown’s collection to find the perfect waistcoat for any occasion here.